Did someone throw a boat anchor behind my car at 4500?

[Jimmy]

I have clear clean lines as far as I know.

Now, that would be an easy and worthwhile thing to verify.

[max71]

How? Roto -Rooter?

[Jimmy]

Umm, and easier way would be to undo the line after the fuel filter, run a hose to a container of known capacity, such as a 5-gallon gas can, then turn on the key and see how long it takes to fill the container.
If that matches pump specs, things should be fine in that department - in which case you're right back to either fixing the cam timing or changing to a 2-cyl. tach.
Notice, though, that I wrote "should". Never, ever, take anything for granted.
(By the way, I got the 200th post on the subject, again)

[JerryB]

An hour or so later I take off. 1st to redline no problem. 2nd to redline - what??!!!

So here's the deal. Heavy throttle in 1st no issues. Heavy throttle in 2nd - bogs down again. Same in 3rd.

Heavy throttle in 1st no issues. light steady throttle in 2nd no problem. Same in 3rd.

Something is not recycling fast enough would be my guess. What that is - unknown.

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

Running out of fuel.
confirm this by putting a pressue guage outside the front windshield and taking for a ride. Clogged fuel sock in the tank...no tank vent or improper charcoal canister vent, kinked fuel line, clogged fuel filter.

EDIT>>>>>>>>> well I only saw page 1.........looks like somewone else figgered it out ??

[max71]

Brand new tank, filter. But I will run the car with that gauge once I get another fitting

[Jimmy]

Brand new tank, filter.

Gary, to save me from rereading it all, did that new tank and/or filter coincide with when the problem started?
I generally go after what I screwed with (up) last, as that's frequently the problem, but you seem to have changed a lot at once.
The almighty pressure gauge will tell...just not where the issue is, if it turns out to be fuel pressure related.

[max71]

I did change the tank at the same time as the rebuild. Anyway, I'll figure out how to drive with the gauge in there and answer that question. I still need to measure #1 intake.

[Jimmy]

A new/replaced tank would be highly suspect, I think.
Splurge for the $0.99 (or whatever a metal T connector costs at the local hardware store) and stick it inline before the carbs, hook the gauge up and go drive.
To keep it outside the car, as Jerry suggested earlier, is a good idea. Although, tucking it under a wiper blade may not work today.

[Steve Simmons]

Gary, I have a complete, used, early fuel line set with T connector. Use it to connect your gauge if you like. That way you don't have to cut your hoses.

[max71]

I think I can get away with just getting a T-connector. I think I need a long run of tubing though to fish it into the cockpit. Leaving the bonnet unlocked while I do a run doesn't thrill me. I know the hook is there in case but causing body damage would really be insult to injury.

[Steve Simmons]

I figured you could just drill a hole in the bonnet and hard mount the gauge in front if the windscreen. That way you only need a short fuel hose.

I wouldn't want to drive with the hood unlatched either, unless I was keeping it under 20MPH.

[Jimmy]

Whoa, guys! There's no reason to cut any hoses, just put the T right after the fuel filter using a short piece of hose, like those throwaway pieces that come with most new filters.
Then (yes, using a long one) run the hose down the inner fender, then up again on the outside. No need to leave the hood ajar or kinking the hose.
Just make damn sure the hose can't get too close to the exhaust, or the ground.

Or, do like Steve and the dragracers...mount the gauge on the hood or cowl.

[max71]

I'm not planning on cutting a hose. I'll put a T-adapter at the end of the hose that fits to the carbs and then get a small piece of hose to go the rest of the way. I'll take a look but it might be easiest to drop the hose down through the peddle box. Since this is short test I don't see any danger.

[Steve Simmons]

My fuel filter is near the fuel pump - in the rear of the car.

I didn't mean actually cut his hoses, I meant cut an extra piece of hose to allow a T to be inserted into the main ones. It can be done at either carb, or at the T junction by the rear carb. Or by the fuel filter of course, assuming it's in the engine bay.

I sure wouldn't want to run a line from a filter in the rear. I can envision the aftermath of it being pulled into the right rear wheel.

[Jimmy]

Since this is short test I don't see any danger.

Alright, so to save $3.50 on hose, you'll wrestle the hose past the pedal box for a short test.
Why not hook it up at the tank, then into the trunk where a friend can read it (if you give him a flashlight)? That way it won't be you that burns if the hose or gauge springs a leak.
Do you really think the dragracers put their gauges outside because they can't afford longer hoses? No, they'd be thrown off the track, and probably even the pit area, if they had the gauge inside the cabin. And they use braided aircraft style hose.

[Steve Simmons]

Then again, drag racers run 500 PSI in their fuel lines. MGBs run 2 to 4 PSI.

I get what you're telling him though. No reason to not be as safe as possible.

[max71]

Jimmy I don't understand a word you said. I do have to buy a longer hose I was just thinking the easiest way to get it into the cockpit. We already know I can't close the bonnet on it.

[Jimmy]

The easiest would still be to run the hose down under the fender.
No need to disrupt any seals or grommets that way.

(And Steve, don't tell Gary, but I have run fuel hoses into - and out of - the Jeep many times through the generous gap between fender and hood. Of course, I also have the fuel pump and filter right there by my left foot, and the tank under the seat)

[max71]

I think I can do it through the peddle box but I have to look again. Don't know how running it through the fender would work. Anyway I'll take a close look when it stops raining.

[Jimmy]

Okay, after the rain stops, open the hood and look down the side of the engine bay. Either side.
Yep, you're looking right at the ground underneath the car.
Now, let a hose drop down to ground level, bend down and grab it from below the car. Done.
Easier, faster, safer...and you can still use the pedals, which will come in handy for the test drive.
But since it's stll may rain, hang the gauge onto the door mirror instead of a wiper.

[max71]

But since it's stll may rain, hang the gauge onto the door mirror instead of a wiper.

Your best line yet

Will do.

[Jimmy]

Gary, it seems we have a surefire solution to your problem, finally.
The tach in my new '67 B reads about 4,500 rpm just going down the freeway with the traffic (about 70, I'd guess - the speedo does a windshield wiper act above 40 mph), and that's in overdrive.
Since there's no way the motor is actually turning that fast - unless all my other tachs are wrong - it would make sense if we traded tachometers.
You'd get one which would easily show 7,000 rpm, I'd get one that reads correctly.
Interested?

[max71]

Funny boy.

[Jimmy]

Can't recall.
Did yours actually read the correct rpm? For sure?

[max71]

For sure. Had it checked.