Ballasted Systems vs. non-ballasted systems, and how to tell

[Fifty Six MGA]

Ok, i was just over at Moss, trying to decide which ignition coil to order for my car, and trying to choose between the
http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts ... exID=98396" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
and the
http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts ... exID=76071" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have the Petronix distributor on my car:http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts ... exID=76129

Anyway, i got stumped when i realized I don't know if my system is ballasted or not. The moss site has a link to a video, so I figured that would tell me, except the test involves testing the coil. which is in pieces in my trunk.

Any easy way to tell?

[gorms68]

Geoff I could be wrong but I believe you need a non-ballasted coil. If you have not bought from Jeff at Advanced Dist. I highly recommend you give him a try. He really stands behind his work and the products he sells.
http://advanceddistributors.mybisi.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Chris

[Jimmy]

Ah, yes, that's what my flem-filled head was trying to tell me - a 9 Volt coil doesn't like running on 12 Volts.
Anyway, the easy way to tell which kind you need is to put a Volt meter on the coil wires.
With the ignition on, but not in the start position, there should be a reading pretty close to battery voltage. If it's significantly below battery voltage, chances are there's a ballast in the system.

[Fifty Six MGA]

"With the ignition on, but not in the start position, there should be a reading pretty close to battery voltage. If it's significantly below battery voltage, chances are there's a ballast in the system."

That's what the Moss Procedure demonstrated, but since my coil is literally in pieces, I don't think I can do that test.

i really want to get the car back on the road so I can join you guys for the memorial day run, and i think I'll be gone next weekend.

[Jimmy]

You don't need the coil to find out what voltage goes to it, just the wiring - which is still intact, right?

[VWNate1]

Didja ever figure this out ? .

It matters because not only do you need the correct ohms resistance coillbut , the Pertronic Ignitor varies depending on the voltage supplied to the coillead~

This is the primary reason why some Ignitiors fail , not because they're poorly made but because the customer didn't bother to cheack which one they needed before ordering .

[Fifty Six MGA]

Jeez, Nate, you're testing my memory!

My system was non-ballasted. I replaced the coil with a Lucas sport coil, and it's been fine.

shortly after all this, I did have an issue with the generator. (I think I got a bad rebuilt one right after I bought the car). I replaced the generator, and since then, the electrical system has been working properly.

given the way the generator failed, I think it way have been getting VERY hot, which could be why the coil failed??

[VWNate1]

The aluminum Lucas Sport Coil has a long history of failing , usually right in dense traffic or when you've got a new , hot babe riding shotgun.... .

I hate them and always toss out right away and replace with a good quality epoxy filled coil , I remove the decals and invert them into the plastic top off a Foo-Foo can and spray silver then add a nice ' LUCAS ' sticker , only YOU ALLS ever notice the difference .

I'm now using the Wilton Electronic Voltage Regulator (' Control Box ') as it gives better voltage control of the generator , they're made out of old LUCAS Regulators so once installed , no one can tell they're not the old typ .

A hot coil usually means either wrong primary resistance or a failing ballast resistor or , too much power to the coil's input lead .

All these are very simple to check using basic tools .

Never , EVER trust a coil right out of the box to be the correct resistance ! .


You have a memory ? can I borry it some time maybe ?? .