MGB Transmission Mounting Pin

fleshy1 · Post by **fleshy1** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 8:06 am

Seems that the pin that goes through the small center brackets was missing from my transmission. Does anyone know what the function of this pin and the bushes are? The factory put there for a reason and I'd like do know what other damage I should check for when I R&R all the rubber bits.

Any tips on getting the crossmember in? Seems like people have problems with it and have gone so far as putting holes in it etc...not really something I'd like to do to a supporting piece of the engine.

Post by **Steve Simmons** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 9:39 am

If you're talking about the pin I think you are, I believe it is to locate the transmission vertically. I seems like it would help extend the life of the transmission mounts as well. The pin on my '65 has been missing for a very long time with no ill effects, but it certainly wouldn't hurt to put it in. I will probably do so when I put the engine back in later this year.

I've heard of people drilling holes in the cross member for all sorts of reasons, but IMHO it shouldn't be necessary. A work lift is nice and a transmission jack certainly helps to hold things in place while you get the screws in, but you can accomplish basically the same thing with a floor jack.

Just remember to put something solid under the corners of the car in addition to jack stands when you start lifting the transmission up with a jack. You don't want to start lifting the car off the stands while you're under it!

Why did you have to pull the transmission anyway? I assume you pulled the entire engine?

fleshy1 · Post by **fleshy1** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:01 am

Negative on the trany pull. I'm going to do this in situ. The transmission mounts looked very squished and are deteriorating. I'm going to replace them and install the poly bushings on the pin. I'm happy with the poly engine steady rod pads that I have so I figured why not go all the way.

My first thought was the vertical location but I also thought to reduce twisting at the output side of things? The before and after should be telling, right now the shift lever kind of bounces up and down with the undulations in the road.

The plan right now:
Receive used crossmember including the brackets.
Clean and paint.
Pre-assemble mounts, backets, and pin.
Install using the floor jack method (and minimal amount of swear words)

Post by **Steve Simmons** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:31 am

Poly bushings and pads are a good idea. Rubber is fine and probably dampens vibration better, but the current rubber bushing offerings for our cars are complete garbage.

I would bet the pin will stop that shifter bounce problem, and the new pads will certainly make a difference. Why do you need a new cross member?

fleshy1 · Post by **fleshy1** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:43 am

I was actually missing the lower bracket of the pin setup, not just the pin itself, but the person I got it from said they would just send me the whole crossmember. I'll probably clean and paint the extra one and pass it on to someone who needs it.

Post by **Steve Simmons** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:52 am

Gotcha. I've taken to painting all that kind of stuff with POR15. It takes longer to get the job done but the stuff is permanent and bomb-proof.

I need to pull the cross member from my '65 and get it sandblasted. You can throw the cross member in with my batch of parts if you want. It won't be for a week or so.

fleshy1 · Post by **fleshy1** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 3:28 pm

Steve, would be nice to have a clean piece of metal to work with. Let me know when you're getting close and I'll swing by.

fleshy1 · Post by **fleshy1** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 7:22 am

Well I got it done yesterday (Sunday). Most disgusting job I've ever done on any car. For my troubles I found a greasy unsmoked king size cigarette. I was so dirty that when I washed my hair the soap was black.

Here,s the victory shot (cigarette is on the left):

Poly pads and bushes in place:

I think I'll be doing a bit of cleaning on the old one before it gets sand blasted.

The new (used) piece got Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and Chassis Black. I wish POR would make their top coats in aerosol. I used the MG maroon on my valve cover and found it difficult to apply with a brush.

Post by **Steve Simmons** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 8:52 am

Yuck! Nothing worse than someone's old cigarette. The one thing about POR in a spray is that the over spray is permanent so you really need a paint booth.

Is your shifter issue gone ?

fleshy1 · Post by **fleshy1** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 9:02 am

The shifter feels "solid" now. In fact the whole car feels more solid, most notably the drive line has quieted now a lot, less clunking and more positive feeling. I'd bet that the u-joints were having fun with the engine twisting and bouncing around.

I understand that POR-15 needs to be applied with a brush (after seeing what it did to the brush you used on the GT axle). It's the top coating product that I had issue with, Engine Enamel. The color and finish are beautiful, but it doesn't go on evenly with a brush, or maybe it's just been too dang hot to apply correctly...

Post by **Steve Simmons** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 9:09 am

I see. I never used a top coat so I didn't get the pleasure of applying it with a brush. I'm hoping the reflected sunlight won't fade the suspension parts.

I'm glad your transmission is solid again, but now you are destined to suffer the fate of anyone who fixes an annoyance on their car. Anything else that needs attention will become far more noticeable and bothersome! It's a vicious cycle.

i know you're already making a list!

fleshy1 · Post by **fleshy1** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 9:15 am

How did you know that I was going to order engine mounts and brackets next week!? Oh no!!!!!

MGB Transmission Mounting Pin

MGB Transmission Mounting Pin

Crossmember pin