Help Wanted: MGB late model engine mount R&R

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fleshy1
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Help Wanted: MGB late model engine mount R&R

Post by fleshy1 »

So...anyone feel like lending me some support (both my engine and me)?
I live in apartment and don't have the resources/space to do this properly.

Both brackets are cracked and the passenger side is starting to bend and deform so I can't let it go any more.

I'd be willing to pay/bribe/sell my first unborn child to any obliging souls. BTW I live near the worlds greatest liquor store so I can get those hard to find liquid refreshments if that is what it takes...

Many thanks!
Eric Triplett
1978 MGB Roadster - 1968 Engine, SU Conversion, full Peco system, K&Ns, 45DM running Pertronix and MSD 6A ignition.
"Electronic ignition, the best thing to happen to carburetors."
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Nunyas
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Post by Nunyas »

I can't offer ya a place to work on your car, but I feel your pain. I too live in a place that is not conducive to working on your own car.

when ya get to workin' on it, take pics! I like watching/reading documentaries of this sort of stuff :)
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Steve Simmons
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Post by Steve Simmons »

If you change them one at a time, it isn't bad at all. Support the engine from the bottom, lift slightly, undo mount and replace. Then move to the other side.

I really, really don't want any kids, but I'd be happy to help out anyway. If I can offer any tools or work space let me know.
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fleshy1
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Post by fleshy1 »

I'm concered about supporting from the bottom, I don't want to damage the oil pan. The way the passenger side mount has cracked I'm thinking that more than support will be required. The engine is going to have to rotate upwards (if you use the drivers side mount as an axis) an inch and a bit to get everything in the proper orientation for a correctly aligned bracket.

If I can avoid troubling people that would be good. What do you think about support/lift from the passenger side part of the pan? Bad idea?
Eric Triplett
1978 MGB Roadster - 1968 Engine, SU Conversion, full Peco system, K&Ns, 45DM running Pertronix and MSD 6A ignition.
"Electronic ignition, the best thing to happen to carburetors."
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Steve Simmons
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1965 MGB
1967 MGB GT (UK-Spec)
1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8
1969 MGC GTS
Location: Co-Nay-Ho Valley
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Post by Steve Simmons »

I would put a 2x4 across the pan lengthwise or diagonally and put the jack under that. Then the pressure would be on the vertical sides of the pan rather than in the middle. The only other way I can think of is to strap the engine and lift from the top.

I don't have an engine hoist but they are cheap to rent. Or it it helps, my neighbor has one I could borrow. Or possibly even use one of the lifts with a strap around it.
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Post by fleshy1 »

Ok. I rented a hoist locally and did the passenger side. The mounting bracket that I pulled out was already welded once and had started cracking again. Also, part of the bracket was completely missing where it attached to the engine block.

I just couldn't bring myself to do the drivers side mount. I don't think it can be done without removing the steering rack since the pinion goes right behind the attachment point.

At any rate the car feels less sloppy.
Eric Triplett
1978 MGB Roadster - 1968 Engine, SU Conversion, full Peco system, K&Ns, 45DM running Pertronix and MSD 6A ignition.
"Electronic ignition, the best thing to happen to carburetors."
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Steve Simmons
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1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8
1969 MGC GTS
Location: Co-Nay-Ho Valley
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Post by Steve Simmons »

I'm not familiar with the later model cars, but can't you just move the rack a little without actually removing it from the car?
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fleshy1
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Post by fleshy1 »

It's not the rack that is the issue, it's the steering rod (pinion) that connects to it. The pinion goes right through the box-shaped frame mount and pretty much prevents all access to the nut that holds the mounting to the frame. I was primarily concerned with the alignment of all that stuff upon re-assembly. I'll have to take a photo to show how nasty the situation is. I told my wife that the English can defy the laws of engineering :P
Eric Triplett
1978 MGB Roadster - 1968 Engine, SU Conversion, full Peco system, K&Ns, 45DM running Pertronix and MSD 6A ignition.
"Electronic ignition, the best thing to happen to carburetors."
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Steve Simmons
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1959 Morris Minor 1000
1965 MGB
1967 MGB GT (UK-Spec)
1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8
1969 MGC GTS
Location: Co-Nay-Ho Valley
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Post by Steve Simmons »

It must be different than my early Bs. They have nothing between the rack and the firewall.
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fleshy1
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Post by fleshy1 »

So here is what I'm dealing with:

Image

If you look closely you can see the pinion rod passing through the frame rail bracket. Also note how that bolt on the right is captured by the block!
Eric Triplett
1978 MGB Roadster - 1968 Engine, SU Conversion, full Peco system, K&Ns, 45DM running Pertronix and MSD 6A ignition.
"Electronic ignition, the best thing to happen to carburetors."
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fleshy1
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Post by fleshy1 »

.
Eric Triplett
1978 MGB Roadster - 1968 Engine, SU Conversion, full Peco system, K&Ns, 45DM running Pertronix and MSD 6A ignition.
"Electronic ignition, the best thing to happen to carburetors."
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Steve Simmons
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1937 MG SA Saloon
1946 John Deere AN
1949 MG TC
1953 MG TD
1958 MGA Roadster
1959 Morris Minor 1000
1965 MGB
1967 MGB GT (UK-Spec)
1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8
1969 MGC GTS
Location: Co-Nay-Ho Valley
Contact:

Post by Steve Simmons »

Wow. That's something I've never run into. I see your problem. I wonder why they did that to later cars?
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Steve Simmons
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1959 Morris Minor 1000
1965 MGB
1967 MGB GT (UK-Spec)
1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8
1969 MGC GTS
Location: Co-Nay-Ho Valley
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Post by Steve Simmons »

So... any update? You get that thing in there?
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fleshy1
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Post by fleshy1 »

UPDATE:

I decided to work on the fact that I didn't have a garage. I fixed that, but doing so didn't change the engine mount :(

Image

Then there was a problem with the carburetors:

Image
Eric Triplett
1978 MGB Roadster - 1968 Engine, SU Conversion, full Peco system, K&Ns, 45DM running Pertronix and MSD 6A ignition.
"Electronic ignition, the best thing to happen to carburetors."
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Nunyas
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Post by Nunyas »

powered by beer.... Pabst.... not gonna go far on that!
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fleshy1
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Post by fleshy1 »

Yeah, I corrected the issue by hiding all the PBR and switching them to Bombay gin and tonic water....

More seriously it turns out that I had mismatched floats. The problem showed up when I correctly set the float height. Silly me for trying to do things correctly.
Eric Triplett
1978 MGB Roadster - 1968 Engine, SU Conversion, full Peco system, K&Ns, 45DM running Pertronix and MSD 6A ignition.
"Electronic ignition, the best thing to happen to carburetors."
User avatar
Steve Simmons
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Posts: 4106
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:45 pm
Vehicles Owned: .
1937 MG SA Saloon
1946 John Deere AN
1949 MG TC
1953 MG TD
1958 MGA Roadster
1959 Morris Minor 1000
1965 MGB
1967 MGB GT (UK-Spec)
1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8
1969 MGC GTS
Location: Co-Nay-Ho Valley
Contact:

Post by Steve Simmons »

Did you move or are you taking over the neighbor's garage? Either way, nice! :thumbs:

Don't you know you're supposed to do everything by eye and ear? That's how the factory built 'em! Going by the book will only get you in trouble. :devil:
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fleshy1
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Post by fleshy1 »

Yes, I moved to Monrovia. I am now a proud home renter (instead of apartment renter). The garage (more like a cave as there are no lights) is "mine"

Town seems classic car friendly. I already had one MGB sighting and noticed that my neighbor two doors down is restoring an old truck. I even saw a poster for a Rod and Custom show on the 29th that will be on the main drag. Anyone feel like crashing it?
Eric Triplett
1978 MGB Roadster - 1968 Engine, SU Conversion, full Peco system, K&Ns, 45DM running Pertronix and MSD 6A ignition.
"Electronic ignition, the best thing to happen to carburetors."
User avatar
Steve Simmons
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1937 MG SA Saloon
1946 John Deere AN
1949 MG TC
1953 MG TD
1958 MGA Roadster
1959 Morris Minor 1000
1965 MGB
1967 MGB GT (UK-Spec)
1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8
1969 MGC GTS
Location: Co-Nay-Ho Valley
Contact:

Post by Steve Simmons »

At least you're still nearby. We should have an "install lights in Eric's garage" party. :lol:
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fleshy1
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Post by fleshy1 »

Well, I did open the spider retirement home (aka the shop vacuum) tonight and I ran some modern electrical instead of the knob and tube that was existing....
Eric Triplett
1978 MGB Roadster - 1968 Engine, SU Conversion, full Peco system, K&Ns, 45DM running Pertronix and MSD 6A ignition.
"Electronic ignition, the best thing to happen to carburetors."
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fleshy1
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Post by fleshy1 »

Done!

Wasn't as hard as it thought, but I think I was "ready" to get it done. Turns out that the PO didn't install the nut that was supposed to be in the box section :| The engine was free to rotate and I could see where the bolt was worn by the frame.

So, here's how it's done.

1) Remove the steering rack. Mark the u-joint before you undo the pinch bolt. Don't take off the tie rod ends, instead, remove the bolts at the steering arm/kingpin (there are four total)

2) Undo the bolt holding motor mount to the frame and the two others holding it to the bracket. It is easier to work the frame bolt from under the car since you can see it.

3) Use your floor jack with a piece of wood going crosswise across the oil pan and jack up on the drivers side until you can work the old mount out.

Reverse the steps to install the new one. Enjoy your nice steady motor that is now riding high in the engine compartment.
Eric Triplett
1978 MGB Roadster - 1968 Engine, SU Conversion, full Peco system, K&Ns, 45DM running Pertronix and MSD 6A ignition.
"Electronic ignition, the best thing to happen to carburetors."
joepf1
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Re:

Post by joepf1 »

Hello Eric,

I'm from San Jose and noticed your communication about installing new motor mounts on you MGB. I have a 1978 and have noticed an engine shake at idle just become a nuisance. I began to think about the engine mounts and decided to examine them only to discover the driver's side mount bracket has a crack in it. I can't detect any movement within the bracket during idle but now I'm pretty sure the crack is likely the heart of my shake problem. I'll tackle most any repair but not without gathering info first. Since you've done this, I though I'd write to discuss. You mention removal of the steering rack - Did you encounter any unmentioned problems with it's removal? Do you think the mount bracket bolts could be removed with taking the steering rack off? You mention undoing the bolt holding motor mount to the frame and the two others holding it to the bracket. I'm assuming you are just loosening the these bolts at this point. Should the engine be supported at that time? Did you replace the cross-frame bushings while you had things disassembled?

It looks like a PIA job but once I've got all of the info, I'm going to try this. I would appreciate any other suggestions you may have.

Regards, Joe Ferrari
fleshy1 wrote:Done!

Wasn't as hard as it thought, but I think I was "ready" to get it done. Turns out that the PO didn't install the nut that was supposed to be in the box section :| The engine was free to rotate and I could see where the bolt was worn by the frame.

So, here's how it's done.

1) Remove the steering rack. Mark the u-joint before you undo the pinch bolt. Don't take off the tie rod ends, instead, remove the bolts at the steering arm/kingpin (there are four total)

2) Undo the bolt holding motor mount to the frame and the two others holding it to the bracket. It is easier to work the frame bolt from under the car since you can see it.

3) Use your floor jack with a piece of wood going crosswise across the oil pan and jack up on the drivers side until you can work the old mount out.

Reverse the steps to install the new one. Enjoy your nice steady motor that is now riding high in the engine compartment.
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