Tanny's 1971 MGB GT

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tannyo
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Re: Paint and Repair of my 1971 MGB GT

Post by tannyo » Wed Dec 08, 2010 5:03 pm

Here's a few more.
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Steve Simmons
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1925 Ford Model T
1939 Ford V8 Pickup
1946 John Deere AN
1949 MG TC
1949 MG TC EXU
1958 MGA Roadster
1959 Morris Minor 1000
1965 MGB
1967 MGB GT (UK-Spec)
1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8
1969 MGC GTS
Location: Co-Nay-Ho Valley
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Re: Paint and Repair of my 1971 MGB GT

Post by Steve Simmons » Wed Dec 08, 2010 5:04 pm

Jeez, you have some long arms. 8)

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tannyo
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Re: Paint and Repair of my 1971 MGB GT

Post by tannyo » Wed Dec 08, 2010 5:07 pm

Steve Simmons wrote:Jeez, you have some long arms. 8)
I wish it was that easy. Take a look at the door and you can see the reflection of a ladder. I was thinking of climbing on top of the house, but then thought better of it. Climbing to the second to the top rung of the ladder was scary enough.

tdskip
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Re: Paint and Repair of my 1971 MGB GT

Post by tdskip » Wed Dec 08, 2010 9:46 pm

She looks great!

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max71
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Re: Paint and Repair of my 1971 MGB GT

Post by max71 » Sun Dec 12, 2010 9:25 pm

Looks sensational. Can't wait to see it in person. :thumbs:

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tannyo
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Re: Paint and Repair of my 1971 MGB GT

Post by tannyo » Sun Feb 27, 2011 4:09 pm

I went to Malcolm's today to have Frank finish up the weber tuning. When I bought my car September 2008, one of the previous owners had replaced the SU carburetors with a single downdraft Weber DSV progressive carburetor. I've always experienced a hesitation on light throttle that has been particularly frustrating when braking into turn, putting in the clutch, blipping the throttle and downshifting. I even had the carburetor rebuilt twice to try to get rid of the problem. The person who did the first rebuild did not do a good job.

When Malcolm had rebuilt the engine Frank noticed that the idle screw was turned in all the way. Last Sunday Frank took the carburetor apart, made sure everything fitted and was adjusted properly. Frank also noticed that the linkage on the carburetor was sloppy. It was taking about an inch of pressure on the accelerator pedal before the linkage on the carburetor would respond! Frank fixed the sloppy linkage, and what a difference it made. When I went home and the next day went on the Presidents' Day run, the difference was amazing. There was still a slight hesitation, but nothing like before. The car started smoothly and ran well when cold. I was very happy with the work that had been done, but Frank wasn't finished. He ordered new jets, a new Weber (not aftermarket) accelerator pump diaphragm and a special squirter that made sure the gas sprayed in the center of the port instead of the side.

Today Frank put the new parts in the carburetor and adjusted it and boy does it run. My little MG feels like it just won't quit revving. The acceleration is super smooth and has totally changed the character of my car. If you have a car with the Weber DSV carburetor and is not running well, I suggest that you make the call to Malcolm and setup a time to have Frank do his magic on your Weber.

Here's the new squirter. Notice the size of the tubes.
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Here's the old squirter. You can see the tubes are much smaller.
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Actually, if you have any Weber that needs work I'd suggest getting Frank to fix the problem.

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tannyo
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Re: Tanny's 1971 MGB GT

Post by tannyo » Fri May 13, 2011 4:28 pm

Waiting for a new fuel pump which has now been installed.
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The old fuel pump leaked and barely turned over. The new fuel pump definitely clicks a lot faster.

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Steve Simmons
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Posts: 4067
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:45 pm
Vehicles Owned: .
1925 Ford Model T
1939 Ford V8 Pickup
1946 John Deere AN
1949 MG TC
1949 MG TC EXU
1958 MGA Roadster
1959 Morris Minor 1000
1965 MGB
1967 MGB GT (UK-Spec)
1967 Austin Healey 3000 BJ8
1969 MGC GTS
Location: Co-Nay-Ho Valley
Contact:

Re: Tanny's 1971 MGB GT

Post by Steve Simmons » Fri May 13, 2011 4:51 pm

I suggest you send your old one up to Dave Dubois for a rebuild. Then keep it in the boot as a spare! Dave will recommend an electronic conversion, and it probably isn't a bad idea for a pump that will be stored indefinitely, but properly stored, a points pump will last quite a long time before any age-related problems might crop up.

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tannyo
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Re: Tanny's 1971 MGB GT

Post by tannyo » Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:59 am

It's summertime and I couldn't open the rear quarter windows because the seals were falling apart and the seals would hang down when the windows were open.
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So I decided to replace the rear quarter window seals. I had two choices for window seals, Bristleflex at $169.95 for each window or the late style seals at $22.95 each. I chose the less expensive late style seals. I used a Phillips head screwdriver, a pair of pliers and tin snips to cut the seals to length.
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I started by removing the two screws that hold the window latch mechanism in place. This allowed me to open the window wider so that I would have access to the seal.
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I then removed the old seal.
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1. Start by inserting the new seal at the rear corner.

2. Cut the seals to length starting with the vertical piece first. Cut the vertical piece so that it goes over the flange to the bottom of the window opening. Cut a small slit so that the window seal goes over the window flange. I used the pliers to slightly shape the slit.
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Cut the horizontal piece so that it butts up flat against the vertical piece.

3. I used the palm of my hand to pound down the seal and remove any lumps.

4. Reinstall the two screws in the window latch mechanism.

I installed the rear quarter window seals based on how the old seals were installed. I now have new window seals that don't hang down when I open the rear quarter windows.

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