Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

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VWNate1
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by VWNate1 »

ARGHHHHh....... :x .
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by Steve Simmons »

Email the photo to them and they might just send you another. It's a very quick fix, maybe five minutes. Two nuts hold it on.

That reminds me, mine are squeaking.
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by tannyo »

Steve Simmons wrote:Email the photo to them and they might just send you another. It's a very quick fix, maybe five minutes. Two nuts hold it on.

That reminds me, mine are squeaking.
My mechanic had one in stock. It's already been replaced. Still doesn't change the fact that I have to have a mechanic do most things because I shake and drop things. I guess I could do it if I took the time.
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by tannyo »

Steve Simmons wrote:Email the photo to them and they might just send you another. It's a very quick fix, maybe five minutes. Two nuts hold it on.

That reminds me, mine are squeaking.
I sent Kelvin an email on April 30, 2016. Haven't heard anything back yet, though it hasn't been very long.

This is a safety issue. Hit a bump on the freeway and the car almost changes lanes. Since putting in a new shock link, I no longer have the changing lane issue.
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Ron Francis Brake Switch

Post by tannyo »

After going through several Moss replacement brake switches I decide to install the Ron Francis SW-32 Hydraulic Brake Switch. After several months I would have to press harder and harder for the brake lights to turn on. This became a safety issue because people following me would tell me my brake lights were not always coming on.

Because the Ron Francis switch has a different from stock connector I wanted a solution that would not change the stock wiring. Who knows, hopefully Moss will come out with a reliable brake switch. The first thing was to create some pigtails that used the special Ron Francis connectors and the plastic connector.
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Then it was a matter of installing the unit and connecting the spade connectors at the end of the pigtails to the stock wiring.
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https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SW-32
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by Steve Simmons »

Since my harness isn't original anyway, I just replaced the spade connectors with the plastic one. You can hide it by installing a rubber boot. Try a tie rod end boot, I seem to remember they fit OK.
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by Larry Kluss »

Good post, Tanny. I'm in the same boat with the E-type brake light switch. I think I'm going to install a relay this time to reduce the contact arcing in the switch.
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by Steve Simmons »

Here are one guy's instructions for MGB. Should be the same for E-Type.
http://userwebs.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/ ... _Relay.pdf
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by tannyo »

20,000 miles later and the transmission has to be rebuilt again. It looks like the lay shaft was not hardened. Over $900 of parts to rebuild the transmission again. Not to mention labor. :x

What's left of the bearings and the prematurely worn lay shaft.
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At least the engine compartment is clean.
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by VWNate1 »

WTF ?! you got robbed Tanny :sick .
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by Steve Simmons »

Who rebuilt it? Seems like you should get some kind of compensation to ease the pain.
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by tannyo »

There are consequences to everything you do. In this case I wanted brakes that wouldn’t fade as much as the stock breaks. After many tries I finally ended up using SCCA racing pads. Turns out the pads just may be harder than the discs.

So what did I do? Of course I ordered new discs and another set of SCCA racing pads. They may not stop very well the first couple times braking, but after that they’re great.
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by Steve Simmons »

Such hard pads don't stop very well on the street in cold or wet conditions. You could try a pad in between, like Green Stuff. They're pretty hard to fade on the street. For my daily, I like the semi-metallic Moss pads. I get them pretty stinky on a fast downhill canyon but I rarely feel any fade unless I'm really going for it. The upside is that they stop so much better in traffic. I've used racing pads before because they were free and took them out. I might still have them here if you want them.
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by VWNate1 »

I concur ;

Racing pads on the street so often cause early morning prangs when some boob cuts in front of you before they're warmed up.....

Not to mentio the spilled Coffee you'll have to wash out of the carpets, under the seats, mats and so on.... :x .
-Nate
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by Larry Kluss »

Tanny, as you know, I do this for a living. Racing compounds should never be used on the street because they will normally not reach their usable temperature range. When they are not used in that range, they will usually kill the rotors very rapidly. We've seen this on the dyno and in the field many times.

The opposite is true when using a street pad on the track. Exceeding the street pad's temp range will usually kill the pads.

For a street performance pad for the MGB, I've used EBC Green stuff which are decent, and I currently have Porterfield R4-S pads in my B now. I've been happy with those. https://www.lpiracing.com/Porterfield-R ... 195868.htm For best results, they should be bedded-in on the car. That can be done in a few minutes after installation. Let me know if you want details on how to do that.

BTW, I still have the original brake rotors in my car with over 100k miles on them.

Also, "hard" or "soft" pads are a misnomer. The hardness of the pad has nothing to do with it's performance level of durability. There are only varying degrees of performance in different pad compounds.
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by tannyo »

With the Hawk SCCA brake pads I find that when I back out of my driveway that the first stop is pretty long. The second stop is not as long and by the time I get to victory, the third stop, the brakes seem to be up to temperature or at least working as well as stock. My problem has been on some of the runs (Tuna Canyon) and some of the rallies I attend I get brake fade on long downhill stretches. Usually when that happens, I just slow down and give myself longer braking distances. In these cases, yes I have been driving faster than some, but not near what I’m capable of driving. I’ve slowed down quite a bit after following Larry that one time and spun out. I was driving too fast for myself and the capabilities of my car. Right now I am more interested in being smooth and enjoying the drive rather than following the leader, who may be driving faster than I am capable of driving so I don’t get lost. I am directionally challenged.

Larry, I’ve tried the green stuff pads and did not like them. They had a lot of fade. What else would you suggest? Since I am retired and on social security with the small pension I don’t have a lot of spare money to put into car modifications. Is there an inexpensive way I could cool down the brakes or brake fluid better?

I definitely need a better option. And Larry, you’re right braking with these pads in the rain is downright scary.
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by Larry Kluss »

Tanny, as I said, I have Porterfield R4-S pads in my B now. I've been happy with those. https://www.lpiracing.com/Porterfield-R ... 195868.htm
I too have gotten brake fade with the green stuff pads going down Tuna Canyon. Admittedly, that is a torture test if you're pushing it. I can't recall if I've been down Tuna with the Porterfield pads or not.
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by Steve Simmons »

All fair points, but I wouldn't choose a daily brake pad based on fading down Tuna Canyon. That's a once or twice short section of road per year road that is much harder on pads than any other road around here. I'm looking for something that will work near it's best for the majority of my driving, and work well for the rest. If I fade a little on a couple really hard downhill canyons then that's ok, I'll just conserve as best I can. It's part of the fun for me, trying to balance speed and brake conservation via compression braking, hand braking, etc.
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by tannyo »

Blown head gasket on the MGB GT. At the arrow and further back. Malcolm will get back to it on Friday and see if the head is straight. If not the head will have to go to the machine shop.

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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by HealeyBN7 »

Hey Tanny. What is the melted solder looking drips on the top most piston?
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by tannyo »

I don’t know. The picture is very low-quality. It’s 640x480. Malcolm would be in the best position to answer that question. Malcolm did tell me that he was surprised that such a cheap head gasket was used.
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by tannyo »

You’ll be glad to know that I switched to a Hawk Street/Track/Autocross pad.

After going through 2 rebuilt starters which the last one lasted all of one day before it grenaded the gear I have had a high torque modern starter installed on my car. Sounds like a Honda, but it spins faster and now works every single time.

Those little pieces on the shaft are what is left of the gear.

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The fly wheel is not warped and the ring gear was replaced in between starters and was double checked to make sure it was put on correctly.
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Re: Tanny's 1967 MGB GT

Post by tannyo »

Bought a rebuilt set of carburetors from Joe Curto. Wow! What an improvement in performance.

Getting ready to go on the Snowball Rally on Friday.

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Lucas Starters Failures

Post by VWNate1 »

Tanny ;

What's the compression ratio on your engine ? .
-Nate
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Re: Lucas Starters Failures

Post by tannyo »

VWNate1 wrote: Wed Apr 24, 2019 7:35 pm Tanny ;

What's the compression ratio on your engine ? .
8.8:1 hi compression MGB.
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