1961 Warwick GT

[Martin Keller]

Hi Dean,

Boy oh boy. First you're up and out for the Vintage Motoring New Years get together and drive and end up it Ventura at the Wellwoods open house and you did not leave there until about 1:30pm so you did not get home until say 2pm or there about and you still had the energy and time to get the Warwick (hope I spelled that correct) into your very fine car barn and then put it up on jack stands and removed the rear differential and half shafts from the car and took photos and then posted them on the forum so we could all see what you're up to on New Year's Day.
I am just amazed at your energy, are you eating Vegemite by the jar or just eating vitamins by the hand full . I left the Wellwoods not long after you departed and my drive to the house was less that 10 min. and when I arrived home I sat down to have a cup of tea and relax a bit and the next thing I know my wife is waking me up for dinner at 5:30pm and I still have not finished the tea I sat down to drink at around 3pm.
How do you do it as we all want to know or is it that you have a full staff to maintain your fleet of unique autos that we do not know about.
I am just amazed at your energy and drive and wish I had half of it when it comes to the up keep and repair of cars.
Thanks for sharing with us all as it is always interesting to see just what you're doing and what new projects you have and yes I am jealous of your ability to get the things you do done as fast as you do.

[HealeyBN7]

Martin ,

Thanks for the kind words. I guess seeing all those nicely running cars at Dave's shop motivated me when I got home. The rear end is now a bit cleaner and with Coast. Yes, I spent the morning cleaning it up even though it was going out for rebuild. I have this theory that the shop will do a better job if you don't give them a greasy mess to start with.

I found in the original documentation one of the modifications Warwick made was to standardize on the more robust Hardi-Spicer half shaft components (u-joints, slip yoke, flanges, etc). This made it easy to find the parts online. They should be here on Monday.

Thanks again for that great parking spot. Love the GT6!

Dean

[HealeyBN7]

With the new rear end and half shafts complete and installed, I decided to tackle the cooling issues with both barrels.

Warwick used the available TR3 radiator. This has a crank hole provision, but it would be impossible to crank start the car as the hole doesn't align with the lower engine/trans installation. Besides they mounted a Lucas electric fan in front which would have really complicated the use of a crank handle.

Playing around with an infrared thermometer it was clear that no cooling was taking place anywhere around the hole. Some web sites suggest 20% of the radiator is blocked, but it looked like a full 4" of vertical cooling wasn't functioning and that is closer to 30%. I thought about recoring the radiator, but Moss was running a good sale. After driving up to see the radiator in person, and transferring the original manufacturer tag, it would be challenging to tell it from the original.

The water pump looked original with the small beater vanes, so it was updated to the high flow model, yet still retains the old wide belt.

The old Lucas fan in the front must have seemed like a good idea, and maybe it was the best fan available, but the four blades on what looked like a utility motor was mounted too far away from the radiator to force enough air through. It also got replaced with a modern unit, new mounts and completely hidden within the shroud.

A couple spirited test drives indicate that I might have solved my cooling issues. But, no good deed goes unpunished - lost the clutch hydraulics again.

Pulled the new slave and found scoring. Best I can tell the push rod is loading the side of the slave bore. I think what is happening is the pedal is returning faster then the slave and air is being drawn into the slave through the scored bore. Maybe the push rod is too short, maybe it isn't aligned correctly. New parts are inbound. Hope to solve this without removing the transmission and dealing with a broken clutch fork pin.

So the current thinking is still to drive around and fix all the issues as they emerge rather then restore the car - just checking.

Dean

[Martin Keller]

So the current thinking is still to drive around and fix all the issues as they emerge rather then restore the car - just checking.

Dean

Hi Dean,

Restoring the Warwick is what I though you are doing by fixing all of the little issues that come up as you drive it and have fun. I would think you would keep it the way it is and just preserve it as the second owner as it shows its use with grace and pride of use and enjoyment. One fully restored to as new it would loose a lot of the so called careactor which makes it such a remarkable auto in its own. My vote would be to preserve it as is only due to its rarity and uniqueness and have fun by added onto its history while it is in your care but that is just me. Heck I have even considered just clear coating my GT6 the way it is and just having fun with it but my wife says I need to make it look good or she will never ride in it as it looks like it just came out of the junk pile even though it runs great so it will be getting a paint job soon before the interior gets put into it.

[Steve Simmons]

I will be curious to see how the radiator works out. I've heard stories about cheap Chinese radiators from Moss not working as well as an original rebuilt with a high quality core. But that was on a different type of car.

[tannyo]

So the current thinking is still to drive around and fix all the issues as they emerge rather then restore the car - just checking.

Dean

I think that's good thinking. The Warwick has a lot of character that would be lost with a full restoration. The Peerless on the other hand is a different story.

Tanny

[HealeyBN7]

I will be curious to see how the radiator works out. I've heard stories about cheap Chinese radiators from Moss not working as well as an original rebuilt with a high quality core. But that was on a different type of car.

Given the 4" font on the side of the cardboard box there was no question that the Moss Tr3 radiator came from China. It looked like a good copy right down to the cooling fin details and all the bypass ducts that one can see with a mirror and a light. it weights just about the same. Now, if it rattles apart and splits it's seams...well I still have my old one that can get re-cored.

While I was debating the purchase in Santa Barbara, the sales guy showed me several detailed cutaway photos of original radiators and initial prototypes. If it sucks, you certainly can't fault them for trying. Guess it is now up to me to stress it before the warranty expires.

[HealeyBN7]

So the current thinking is still to drive around and fix all the issues as they emerge rather then restore the car - just checking.
Dean

Hi Dean,
Restoring the Warwick is what I though you are doing by fixing all of the little issues that come up as you drive it and have fun.

Indeed that is the plan! It's been a rough weekend after being rewarded with the slave problem. I have all the parts to rebuild the generator next, as it seemed a bit noisy when I was spinning it without the belt. Don't be surprised in a few years if all the running gear gets touched one way or another under neath that wonderful paint job.

[Martin Keller]

It's been a rough weekend after being rewarded with the slave problem.

So that is how your able to get so many things done in such a short period of time.... .... As we all know the Emancipation Proclamation of 1863 freed the slaves so don't be mad at you slave in the Warwrick as it was justified in giving up and not working for you.

[(From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) The Emancipation Proclamation was an executive order issued by President Abraham Lincoln on January 1, 1863, as a war measure during the American Civil War, to all segments of the Executive branch (including the Army and Navy) of the United States. It proclaimed the freedom of slaves in the ten states that were still in rebellion,[1] thus applying to 3.1 million of the 4 million slaves in the U.S. at the time. The Proclamation was based on the president's constitutional authority as commander in chief of the armed forces;[2] it was not a law passed by Congress. The Proclamation also ordered that "suitable" persons among those freed could be enrolled into the paid service of United States' forces, and ordered the Union Army (and all segments of the Executive branch) to "recognize and maintain the freedom of" the ex-slaves. The Proclamation did not compensate the owners, did not itself outlaw slavery, and did not make the ex-slaves (called freedmen) citizens. It made the eradication of slavery an explicit war goal, in addition to the goal of reuniting the Union.]

All kidding aside the slave cylinder repair should be a piece of cake for you and should not be all that difficult to fix I would think.

[malcolmr18zoy]

I have a Moss Motors radiator in my MGB, and I'm very satisfied with it. I fitted it about 5 months ago, and it has resulted in significantly reduced temperatures when driving hard in canyons, or at high speeds on the freeway, despite removing the electric fan.
Malcolm

[HealeyBN7]

Hope to solve this without removing the transmission and dealing with a broken clutch fork pin.
Dean

Bought a new slave.

Unfortunately I had to fabricate a longer push rod. Everything is installed, but I still need to finish bleeding the system, but the fact that the new stock push rod was too short is a good indicator that the clutch fork pin is broken... Might be ok, might have been this way for years or might break and rotate further which will render the fork useless. Trans comes out through the interior. Maybe new clutch parts. a rear main seal, and cleaning and resealing the trans/overdrive can make it a worthwhile exercise.

I am resigned to do it if it needs to be done, and happy to push it off if it can wait!

Dean

[marankie]

Yep, had to lengthen the rod on my MGB-GT too. Never understood why, and the rebuild including a new clutch was only 1 year old.
Harbor freight has little remote video cameras that are small enough to go through a spark plug hole. Maybe Austin would like one of those for his birthday, and you could borrow it to take a look at your clutch fork/TO bearing mechanism.
Martin

[HealeyBN7]

Good idea. Found several tiny USB LED endoscopes on ebay that plug into a laptop for under $20. Several have mirrors and magnetic pickup attachments, so you can see the washer/nut you lost on the screen and have a chance of retrieving it.

Seems like a handy addition to the tool box. Worth taking a gamble on.

[daysineuropa]

I have the Harbor Freight 2.4" display endoscope. It works a treat. Works perfect to check for corrosion inside body panels.

It is available for any VM members that want to borrow it. Just send me a PM.

[malcolmr18zoy]

If you had to lengthen the clutch slave cylinder push-rod, it would indicate that the throw out bearing is worn out. It should be a carbon thrust on your car.
Malcolm

[Larry Kluss]

I concur, Malcolm. While investigating the reason for the close-to-the-floor engagement of clutch pedal on Tyson's Midget, we were able to see well enough into the bell housing to see the old throw-out bearing was mostly worn out. A longer pushrod helped a little, but it's a temporary crutch.

You might want to check your throw-out bearing, Dean.

[HealeyBN7]

Finally got around to test driving the Warwick after replacing all the clutch hydraulics. Radiator and fan work great, rear end is quiet, generator rebuild seems to be succesful, but unfortunately for me the clutch still isn't "fully" releasing.

Can't blame it on the master or slave as both are new, so it is likely that the fork pin is broken. Tell tale symptom was that I had to make an extended slave pushrod. In my case the actuating lever is rotated too far to start with, so the effective throw is less.

No easy way to fix the broken pin in the car, so it's time to remove the lump - through the interior of the car...

Since the transmission will be coming out, it will be a good idea to freshen up the second gear synchro and have a good look at the OD. It will be hard to put it back together without repalcing the clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing. I do know that the bell housing case is cracked and welded. Probably from the TR3 accident before it found it's way into the Warwick. I have a spare 4 speed from the Peerless, so it might be wise to combine the best parts of the two boxes together and put in a freshly rebuild unit into the Warwick.

I'll plan on replacing the torn Wilton Wool carpet when the interior comes apart. I am confident I can match the trim and reuse the heel pad, so there will be no loss to originality. While I love the patina, holes in the carpet are holes.

I am going to have to see when this can happen. I have a few other projects backing up...

Dean

[Steve Simmons]

Consider saving yourself a lot of time and frustration. Send the whole gearbox to Quantum and get it back ready to install. Just my 2 cents.

The gearbox will come out easier if you remove the roof first.

[Stewart]

I'll second sending the box out to quantum. I had them redo the box for the 67 and it was gone for 3 weeks total.

[HealeyBN7]

As I ponder the task of removing and replacing the transmission, I thought I would do something about the fist size holes in the carpet. A trip to Santa Paula (World Upholstery) proved useful to score a couple yards of black Wilton wool and leather cloth (#3334).

Three broken needles later and the leather cloth is now bound around the edges, new leather pads for the seat bottom are installed and the rubber ribbed heal pad is transferred and firmly in place. I still have to set the snaps but I see no need to do that until the clutch is back to working order. The old carpets will remain tucked away in a storage bag - holes and all.

Dean

[Fifty Six MGA]

Welding, mechanics, fiberglass and sewing. The breadth of your skill is impressive Dean. Seriously.

[Martin Keller]

Welding, mechanics, fiberglass and sewing. The breadth of your skill is impressive Dean. Seriously.

And you forgot making obsolete data plates from scratch.

[Steve Simmons]

And building chicken coupes.

[DaveC]

I can report that getting the 'box out through the interior is very easy - just like in the TRs etc, and no harder because of the roof....

I've had mine out a couple of times, and the only thing of note was that dropping the exhaust off the back mount made it much easier. The exhaust pipe is so tight against the frame that it hinders being able to control the engine tilt when putting the 'box back in.

dave

[HealeyBN7]

I can report that getting the 'box out through the interior is very easy - just like in the TRs etc, and no harder because of the roof....

I've had mine out a couple of times, and the only thing of note was that dropping the exhaust off the back mount made it much easier. The exhaust pipe is so tight against the frame that it hinders being able to control the engine tilt when putting the 'box back in.

dave

Dave,

You are inspiring. It's just no good having new floor mats and no way to drive the car around. I guess I just need to double down and get it done. I do like driving that car and not being able to is driving me nuts.

Are you resealing the engine and trans. How does the clutch look?

Dean